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rogerl911 Curious About Ghosts

Joined: 17 Sep 2006 Posts: 2 Location: Erie, PA
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Posted: Sep Sun 17, 2006 3:41 pm Post subject: Digital Cameras - Best ISO/Shutter Speeds For Ghost Hunting |
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Hi there! I'm new to all of this, but very interested. I have a brand new digital camera that I would like to start using and I was wondering if I needed to put it on any particular settings or anything to get better results. I also have an MP3 player that does voice recordings. Will this help at all for EVP's? I am a very busy college student that works two jobs, so for right now, this is just something I'd like to dabble in since it's always kinda interested me. Is there any sort of advice you can give to a newbie? Any programs I may want to have on my computer? Any other cheap, but yet effective equipment I could get my hands on? Anything would be of help to me. Thanks a bunch! BTW, I love this site! All of the pictures and EVP's! Very, Very interesting! I also like the investigation from the State St. Tavern since it's so close to home. Well, I'll talk to y'all soon! _________________ Roger L. |
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Aedryan Methyus Prestigious Innovator Of Ghost Study


Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 952 Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Posted: Sep Mon 18, 2006 2:08 am Post subject: |
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Welcome to the forum, Roger!
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I have a brand new digital camera that I would like to start using and I was wondering if I needed to put it on any particular settings or anything to get better results.
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Definitely keep your shutter set at the fastest speed if you have adjustment options on your camera. If you don't have a good external flash, definitely get one! You will save yourself a lot of time and trouble when it time to review your photos.
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I also have an MP3 player that does voice recordings. Will this help at all for EVP's?
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Just so it has a microphone on it, it should be fine.
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Any programs I may want to have on my computer?
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I highly recommend Cool Edit Pro for reviewing, discerning and enhancing EVP's. It's pretty pricey to buy, but you can find hacked copies pretty much anywhere. I use Photo Studio 2000 SE and Paintshop Pro for photos. Paintshop Pro is also very expensive to buy, but again, you can also find hacked copies of it pretty much anywhere....
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Any other cheap, but yet effective equipment I could get my hands on? Anything would be of help to me.
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The best thing you can invest in is a good high megapixel camera and a good external flash. I recommend at least 7 megapizels. Nothing sucks more than reviewing dark, pixelated photos. The next thing you're gonna want is a video recorder with built-in nightvision and super nightvision. I advice against getting the newer nightvision camcorders though. Their nightvision sucks! Pay the extra money for an older Sony Handycam with super nightvision. You will also need a nightvision extender for it, which mounts on top of it. The nightvision is worthless otherwise.
The best advice I can give you is, just accept right off the bat that ALL orb photos are dust and other airborn particles, regardless of what color it is and even if it is in motion or "apparently" behind another object! I can honestly say that with all certainty now. I will be adding some recent new discoveries to my "A Study Of Orbs Report" very soon that proves this beyond a doubt. Also, be sure to take a look at my "A Study Of Ecto Report" as well, if you haven't already. Unfortunately, most "ecto" can be attributed to fog or breath. I have also discovered recently that every photo I have ever catagorized as a "Light Anamoly" in several of our reports are most likely nothing more than bugs. I will be writing a seperate report on that soon as well.
I hate to sound like a party pooper here. I'm just being brutally honest. You would do well to focus the majority of your ghost study on EVP's. Best of luck and please be sure to keep us posted on any findings!
- Aedryan _________________
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rogerl911 Curious About Ghosts

Joined: 17 Sep 2006 Posts: 2 Location: Erie, PA
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Posted: Sep Mon 18, 2006 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Aedryan!! Thanks for the reply and the tips!! I just downloaded Paint Shop Pro 8 and Cool Edit Pro 2.0, so I should be all set to go shortly once I figure out how to use everything. One more quick question though if you don't mind. My camera is an Olympus SP-320 7.1 megapixel. The instructions don't really help me much, but my shutter speed goes from 1/2 to 1/1000...which would be the fastest shutter speed I apologize to you now for not being very smart with the electronics. LOL
Also, I have an ISO setting on there as well. I understand that it's for sensitivity, but should that be adjusted to any specific setting It goes from 64 to 800. And one last and final question please....Should I have the settings on Cool Edit Pro adjusted to anything specific when I'm listening for EVP's
I have learned so much from your website so far. There's soooo much information. I went ahead and read your study on Orbs and Ecto's and found them very informative. Well, thanks a lot for the reply and all your help! _________________ Roger L. |
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Aedryan Methyus Prestigious Innovator Of Ghost Study


Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 952 Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Posted: Sep Mon 18, 2006 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Roger,
No problem! That's why we're here! As far as your shutter speed goes, 1/1000 would be the fastest setting on your camera. That's still not very fast though (my particular camera goes up to 1/5000), so there is good possibility that you will probably get a lot of false positives. This will happen most often when there is a light source and camera movement at the same time. It will cause various light streaks in your photos.
Here is some ISO info I found on the web:
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ISO (Sensitivity)
ISO is the number indicating a digital camera sensors sensitivity to light. The higher the sensitivity, the less light is needed to make an exposure. Digital cameras automatically select the ISO but most have a setting to change it manually. Auto ISO generally works best for bright scenes.
Shooting at a lower ISO number requires more light than shooting at a higher number. Lower numbers result in images with the least visible noise, which is desirable. The higher the number, the more noise. The amount and degree of noise varies from camera to camera.
Digital single reflex cameras (dSLR), because they have larger sensors, are best for producing noise-free images. However, some consumer digital cameras now have improved sensors that produce acceptable images at higher ISO numbers.
ISO settings
AUTO ISO - digital camera automatically sets the ISO speed according the the brightness of the scene, increasing or decreasing the sensitivity. User has no control over which ISO number is used.
ISO 50 - 80 - for taking photos in bright light; excellent for close-ups, landscape, and portraits. Produces fine detail and image quality.
ISO 100 - for extra sensitivity with little, if any, reduced image quality.
ISO 200 - cloudy and overcast days. Acceptable image quality, with some visible noise.
ISO 400 and above - suitable for indoor photography whether or not a flash is used. Useful for "stop-action" and sports photographs. Most compact digital cameras produce high to very high image noise.
* Changing ISO also changes the aperture and shutter speed.
Adjusting ISO
Digital cameras are usually set by default to automatic ISO. The camera automatically sets the ISO according to the light conditions. Many users prefer to manually adjust the cameras sensitivity.
Selecting an ISO number 100 or below produces little visible noise. Test each ISO number under a variety of lighting conditions until you become familiar with the noise your camera produces at each setting.
When shooting in low light, whenever possible use a flash or tripod, or both. You will be able to shoot at low ISO numbers without having camera shake.
If images are noisy, noise reduction programs do an effective job at eliminating some of it, though fine detail may be sacrificed. When images are reduced in size for printing and viewing on a computer, the visual presence of noise if often barely noticeable.
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As far as Cool Edit Pro goes, it's just gonna be trial and error until ya find what works for ya. Personally, I have a lot of luck discerning EVP's by selecting the entire WAV/MP3 and increasing the amplification accordingly, slowing down the pitch, raising the pitch, slowing the audio down, speeding it up, noise reduction, equilization, etc.... Essentially, whatever it takes to clearly hear what is being said.
Best of luck and be sure to visit and post often. We need somemore regulars here at the forum!
- Aedryan _________________
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fratka Prestigious Innovator Of Ghost Study


Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 567 Location: Alvin, TX
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Posted: Sep Tue 19, 2006 7:17 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, we do after the great SHGHRS rebellion of 2 double-aught six, the membership has been waning! Sorry, I had to get a little "Jethro".  _________________ Frank Ratka
Death does not exist!
http://thecontactfield.blogspot.com/ |
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Aedryan Methyus Prestigious Innovator Of Ghost Study


Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 952 Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Posted: Sep Thu 21, 2006 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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Those 3 whole people were flakes anyway. Twas no loss at all....  _________________
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fratka Prestigious Innovator Of Ghost Study


Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 567 Location: Alvin, TX
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Posted: Sep Thu 21, 2006 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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True but they went around slanderizing this forum. The weaker minds and new people in the paranormal community were more ready to believe the bullshit than people who have actually held conversations with us. Hopefully we can get the word out on other forums and communities that the SHGHRS forum is still as reliable and honest in your research as ever.
Pay no attention to my bad grammar!  _________________ Frank Ratka
Death does not exist!
http://thecontactfield.blogspot.com/ |
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